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Some Local Flavor...

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During these long winter months in Paris, when the grey skies never seem to end, and you stay wrapped in scarves and winter coats, my thoughts turn to eating. To perk up the dreary days, I’ve invited my 29 year-old daughter, Nini, to join me in discovering the best restaurants of Paris. Starting this month, I hope to report to you some of our favorite finds.

Restaurant of the month:
Septime, 80 rue de Charonne 75011
1 Michelin Star, voted #50 on world’s 50 best restaurants list
Reservations essential
Count 110 Euros for two people

This one’s in the 11th arrondissement, a typical Parisian neighborhood off the beaten track. It’s surprising to find Septime which, with its Scandinavian casual elegance, feels out of place on this unassuming Parisian street. Simple wooden tables and chairs, candles lit even at lunchtime, a large bouquet of wildflowers on the window sill, it feels Nordic both visually and gastronomically. If you’ve ever been to Copenhagen, Septime has the same casual and minimalist look. It’s relaxed in a nicely sophisticated way. In an interview for Four magazine, the chef Bertrand Grébaut described his culinary philosophy as nature, simplicity, raw, tradition and modernity. That comes through with perfection! 

Nini and I shared two lunch menus, three dishes each. The raw bream on a bed of cream delicately flavored with juniper and topped with walnut shavings for Nini, and cauliflower under paper thin bacon for me, were entrées that were equally subtle. The white wines recommended by our waitress were excellent: a smoky Italian white wine, and a light chardonnay.

For the main course, Nini had a seared pollock with orange butter, leeks and small turnips. I had “poulette,” or young chicken, with smoked endives and a brocciu cheese on the side. All top quality ingredients, used sparingly, and as undercooked as possible. A delicious glass of burgundy and pinot noir accompanied the Sumaintrain cheese which melted deliciously into our mouths. We finished off with fromage frais whipped up with honey and bergamot, alongside petals of semi-dehydrated citrus fruit, citrus sorbet and a honey crisp. All pleasantly fresh and tasty. Betrand Grébaut has kept his word – natural and basic, raw, yet traditional and contemporary at once.

By the way: I like a nice restroom. This one has a view over a very pretty country-looking courtyard as you’re washing your hands. It keeps with the Nordic mood of rustic sophistication with a large basin sink, lovely Aesop soap and individual cloth towels.
By Mary Thompson, our local Parisian

February 2017

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©2022 by MaryHoldenThompson. 

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